RE: Dometic Refer thermostat adjusting screw?- UPDATE
You did not list the model and year of the refrigerator, however there are a couple of other things you can try. Does this happen on all modes? Try LP and then electric. Have you adjusted the thermistor? This is a temp sensor inside the ref box clamped to the evaporator fins. If it's low, it's sensing cooler air. Slide it to the top. Is your freezer defrosted? An absorption refrigerator heats the solution, percolating it up the tube and absorps heat thru the evaporator fins of the freezer section first. If there is too much ice build up, the ref box won't cool properly. Also check the temp of the various sections of the cooling unit. You may have a blockage or air pocket. This can be done by hand, "IF" you can get your hand up into the various areas. Be careful, it will be extremeley hot at the burner assembly but check temp there, at the evaporator tube, and the resevoir. A hot spot could be a plugged area as well as a cool spot.
RE: Dometic refridgerator only works on propane, no electricity
First, verify that you have 120-V AC going to the plug in, which plessm did. Then take off the cover to the control module which is inside the back outside vent. There should be a 3 amp 12-V DC and a 5 amp 120-V AC fuse here as well. Make sure you have continuity (the fuse is good). If they are good, check for AC voltage at the heating element terminals. Usually it's a blown fuse, if you replace the fuse and it blows again, generally it's a defective heating element which has grounded out. Also, keep in mind that even though you are running on 120-V AC, you need at least 10.5V DC to operate the power module.
RE: Restoring a nice shine to motorhome exterior
I assume you have a '98 Southwind by your description (10 yrs old!) which means you probably have a filon outer skin with a slight gelcoat, not the high-gloss version that we see today. 303 protectant is a great product to help restore the original color of the gelcoat, however, if you have ever waxed it, or it has water residue from rain, washing with hard water etc, it needs to be "buffed". ProtectAll has some great products for this. WalMart sells a very good buffer that has a 12" pad. Use a very light polishing compound that has minimal "grit" and it will take off most of the wax and oxidation. Or you can use the Maquires Oxidation formula or others from ProtectAll. Don't buff the decals, they have a UV coat that will come off and then you have real problems later on. Once you get it buffed, I would recommend 303 which you can mop on. Otherwise use ONLY a UV inhibitive wax. Others will actually enhance oxidation and dull gelcoat! DON'T wax the decals, they can't "breath" and will crack eventually.
RE: Grey Tank Repair Help What To Use
Most tanks are made of polyethylene plastic ground in a powder form, put into a rotational mold, and heated in a furnace spinning the mold in every direction. We just developed an RV Handyman DVD and #3 was on water systems and how to repair a crack or pin hole. The best method is to get a strip or wand of like material as suggested in an earlier post and do a hot weld. The small little butane torches work great. They are available at Camping World or just about any Home Repair store. Drilling a hole at both ends is a must, then just touch the stick to the crack and weld away. Be care not to put too much heat on the tank itself as you can burn a hole or weaken the area. It's best to do a side heat to the stick with less direct flame on the tank. Practice makes perfect and it's actually fun!
RE: Battery - two 12V's or two 6V's
As you can see by the previous posts, this is a Ford vs Chevy type issue. Winnebago only offers 12-Volt DC batteries for a variety of reasons. In their opinion (I worked there 15 years!) 12-volt batteries don't produce as much sulpher gas when recharging, don't require as much water management, are lighter, and are easier to find replacements out on the road. HOWEVER! We just completed some extensive research while developing an RV Handyman DVD series and the newer technology has reduced the amount of vapor coming off a 6-volt battery, less water/acid depletion, and lighter design. What most people don't realize is that the average 12-volt DC battery put in RVs today by manufacturers is group 24! not 27! So alot of times owners aren't comparing the same power levels. Granted, larger coaches with huge power demands probably have 27s, but look at the specs on your typical gas coach...24! I have seen battery prices/availability all over the board. The one post that said the 6-volt was higher either had different amp hours or just economies of scale with the higher demand 12-volts used in certain areas? I think what makes the most sense is the suggestion to not fix what isn't broken. And more important, learn how to care for your batteries and with this small of an amp draw, they should last a long time. Biggest issue with battery failure is improper charging, parasitic draws, storage. I don't remember what part of the country you are in, however, if you store your rig for the winter, take the batteries out if it's not a heated area, or install a battery tender. Batteries can drain and if left in a depleted state for more than a month will start to sulfate. This forms around the plates and "cakes" at the bottom and gradually renders the batteries useless. A proper multi-stage charge once a year is recommended, this starts with a very high charge for the first stage that boils or percolates the acid and breaks up this sulfur. It then goes thru two charging stages with the final one an equalizing stage that gets each cell in the same state of charge.
A parasitic draw can be from something as simple as the Co detector or LP leak detector, both of which are hard wired to the battery. It could also be from presets on a radio. These small draws can run a battery down in 3 days. That's why it's good to have a solar panel to "top" them off. But still good to hard charge once a year.
RE: Rexhall house batteries
I don't have a wiring diagram, but if they are 6-volt batteries, they need to be wired in series, meaning the + (positive) on one batter gets a jumper wire to the - (negative) post on the second. This creates 12-volts DC to the load center. If you have six batteries, they are wired in pairs just like you had 3 12-Volt batteries, one hot and one ground coming from each "pair".
RE: Norcold 1200LRim cooling unit died??
Both Norcold and Dometic say 3 degrees side to side, 6 front to back is acceptable. But how do you tell that??? Use the round bubble level that came with the unit. If you don't have one, I just found one at Ace Hardware in the tool section for $3.95. Put it in the freezer on the flat surface and if the bubble is within the little circle, you're ok. I don't think the WalMart parking lots are to out of whack to cause that? 38 is still not outstanding, what was the ambient temperature?
RE: will 20 AMPS BE SUFFICIENT
Do your math! Since you did not specify what brand, year, or type/s of AC units, they could draw 18 at full load on older units, or the newer "high efficiency" units only draw about 14. Newer meaning after 1998! Very seldom does an AC run at full capacity. Your refrigerator is probably connected to a 10 amp breaker in the power distribution box so it can't draw more than that and usually only about 4-8 amps. Something you may want to consider is an energy management system. This hooks several non-critical appliances to a monitoring device and actually shows the amp draw. One version is made by Intellitec and is used widely by Winnebago, Fleetwood and others. You can set the desired capacity at various levels such as 15 and 30. As the demand gets close to that load range, the system will shut off appliances as needed to prevent you from overloading. Winnebago has it standard and calls it Powerline. They have the rear ac compressor first, rear fan second, water heater third, and the ref forth. So if you pop the microwave on with the other stuff, it will shed the rear ac compressor, but the fan will continue to move air for the 2-3 minutes you need the extra power.
RE: Norcold 1200LRim cooling unit died??
As posted, the only time a cooling unit goes south is a leak or blockage due to operating in an unlevel position for a long period of time. We just completed an RV Handyman DVD series on Ref troubleshooting and there are a few ways to verify if the cooling unit is shot. The first is to run it on all modes. If it works on 120-v AC like the dealer is trying now, then it's not the CU. Another way is to run the unit for a couple of hours, since you have the issue on lp, run it on that mode. After it gets to the lowest operating temperature, check the cooling unit for temperature variations. You can do this with your hand, however the burner assembly will be very hot, so a probe is recommended. If you don't sense much difference in temperature from the water seperater to the evaporator coil, to the absorber vessel, then the CU is ok. One way dealers and repair centers isolate the problem is to hardwire it direct and run for 2 hours, meaning they bypass the control board to verify which component is not working.
I would recommend the following:
Check your venting behind the ref and at the top. Make sure there is a clear path up and around. I have seen some models that have the ref installed wrong by being too close to the wall, too much insulation shoved in behind, or even poorly engineered cavity! These all require a ref R&R. Have you installed aftermarket vent fans? Don't install them on the floor, they are designed to go up on the upper most pipe/tube and draw air over the tubing and out the top. The CU and other components block airflow of the lower mounted fans and make them ineffective.
Also check voltage. 12-V DC should be at least 11.5-12.5, 120-V AC should be 110-120!
If it works on 120-V properly, then you need to check/clean your burner assembly. A certain type of spider loves the smell of propane and builds a web that impedes the flow of lp causing insufficient "percolation" of the solution. Also a build up of soot and dirt can be the cause. Use an air gun to blow out the lp supply line prior to the electrode, the burner, and the flue as far up as you can go. Wear safety glasses, it can be messy! Look at your flame, is it a dark blue with a light blue edge? If there is orange, you need to clean it out.
As stated above, it may be the thermistor (temperature sensor inside mounted to the fins.) have you tried adjusting it? You can also test it by placing it in a cup of ice water for about 10 minutes and then doing an ohm meter test. Norcold recommends it be at 40,000.
It could be low lp pressure. It's recommended that you take your rig to a qualified service center and have the lp pressure tested periodically. Just because the stove top lites, doesn't mean you have proper pressure.
Hope some of this helps before spending big $$$ on a CU!
RE: Poor Refrigerator Performance In Hot Weather
We just developed an RV Handyman DVD with #2 featuring RV Refrigerators. Absorption refrigerators create heat by "boiling" or percolating a solution that flows thru the tubing and evaporators and literally draws the heat out of the freezer and refrigerator. Thus, when you get into extreme heat situations, it becomes critical that all components are operating to max capacity. Norcold and others make an aftermarket fan that helps draw the hot air out from behind the refrigerator compartment. Some manufacturers install them in the factory, you should be able to see them attached to the upper coil by taking off the vent cover up on the roof or on the side at the top on other models and looking down inside. Don't install these on the floor of the refrigerator compartment even though it's an easier install. The cooling unit and other components block the flow and they are very inefficient. They are designed to install at the top on the solution pipe or tube. This may require removal of the ref on some models! Some are hard wired to a switch, others to a temperature sensor and come on automatically.
Here are a couple of other items to check:
Does your ref operate better on one source than the other? If it seems to be cooler on 120-V AC, then you may have a dirty or partially plugged burner assembly? It's a good idea to use an air compressor and blow out the supply line just before the electrode, the burner, and as far up the "flue" as you can. Wear safety glasses as this could be messy! There is also a certain type of spider that loves the smell of propane and often spins a web in this area which blocks or impedes the flow of LP. In this case you may need to use a pipe cleaner or wire to clean it out. It's also a good idea to blow out the back of the ref compartment as far up as you can get to ensure that there is no blockage. I have also seen some units that have the ref installed incorrectly, too close to the wall, or too much insulation, or insulation that has just fallen down blocking the venting. This requires a ref R&R. (remove & replace) Make sure the vent it not blocked with debris on the roof as well.
Also check the voltage coming in. Low battery voltage can cause an issue as it should be in the 11.5-13 range. Same with low AC voltage, should be 115-120.
Move your thermistor (temperature sensor inside on the fins) to a higher position that will sense the higher temp and adjust back at the board.
Check your door gasket seal. Doors can sag, seals can split, and cool air escapes.
Also try positioning your rig so the ref vent is not in the sun if possible?
RE: Generator problems - need help
Here are a few suggestions:
Check the fuel hose as recommended, a crack can cause too much air in the mixture, a collapsed line can limit fuel.
Altitude setting? Most Onans have an altitude or winter/summer setting which can be moved easily.
Fuel Filter/Air Filter?
Do you really have 1/2 a tank? Manufacturer's vary and even models vary in where the fuel line is plumbed, try a full tank.
More than likely you have a varnish problem. Onan recommends you start your genset at least once a month and run it on full load for an hour! Most of us don't ever get to full load, let alone run it once a month for an hour. Today's gasoline is more vulnerable to varnish and gumming the carb or intake than previous. It's become a very big issue with Onan and a great money maker for service centers. Do a search in this forum and you'll see several posts of owner's that had to get a rebuild for this exact issue. If you've tried everything else, take it to a service center and get it checked out.
RE: slidemotor running
Sounds like a bad/intermittent switch but would need a little more info? What make/model/Yr RV? What type of slide mechanism, HWH, Power Gear ??? Electric/Hydraulic? Bedroom/Kitchen/Living Room? When you push in the switch, the motor starts immediately, the room comes in/out, and then sometimes you let go of the switch and the motor continues to run? Are you sure you're taking your finger off the switch? Or not turning the key?
RE: Repair fridge $450.00? OR need help to find reset fuse?
What year is the fridge? Norcold quit making a 3 way or at least mfgs quit using them in the late '80s/early '90s! We just finished researching and shooting an RV Handyman DVD on the refrigerator and are now in post. There are several things to troubleshoot before going to the dealer.
1. Check voltage to the plug in. Use a multimeter and check the voltage, should have between 110-130! 108 may work, however, older weaker boards may not recognize enough power, especially with a weak heater element?
2. If you don't have voltage, check your GFCI. Outlets that are near a water source or outside, which this one technically is, are hooked in series to the GFCI outlet that has the reset button. Usually in the kitchen or bathroom.
3. If you have proper voltage, check continuitey of the plug to the board.
4. Check voltage to the board.
5. Check voltage after the fuse. It may look good...check it!
6. Next, check DC voltage! Even though you are trying to run on 120-Volt AC, you still need 12-V power and over 10.5! However, if it works on LP, it probably has 12-V power?
Also, your system should be Auto Mode and Gas Mode (and DC Mode if 3-way). When it's on the auto mode, it searches for AC which is the priority Mode, however, if it's not available, then it switches to Gas? You stated you have to unplug the unit to "Trick it into thinking there's only propane"? Can't you just select Gas Mode? From your description of the dealers attempt to fix your water heater, I'd get a second opinion! If you have a lazy flame, it's more likely an adjustment of the main-burner flame is needed? The flame should burn blue and sometimes burns yellow. If the flame can't be adjusted, it's possible that the burner jet is clogged. Still not a circuit board?
I would suggest picking up a copy of the Trailer Life Repair and Maintenance Manual. It's 19 chapters of in-depth troubleshooting advice and is a great reference.
RE: Is this a stupid idea? (furnace problem)
A couple of things to consider:
1. What power source are you plugging into? The dealer is probably plugged into at least 30amp and you may be plugging into 15 amp residential power? Normally this wouldn't make much of a difference, but here is part 2 of this...your furnace needs 10.5 Volts from the battery. If you have bad batteries, plugging into 30 amp will supply enough power to the monitor board/spark ignitor.
2. Is your propane valve turned on AND air purged? Check this at the stove top. Sounds simple but I've seen it happen!
3. The LP Leak detector could be malfunctioning as stated above...check again at the stove.
4. Get a multimeter, check DC current to the furnace, check for ground, could be a loose, corroded, or faulty ground? One easy check is to run a "test" wire directly from a ground source like the neg side of the battery to the circuit board. If it lites...faulty ground.
5. Videotape how you are operating this, what the temp is, altitude everything and show it to your dealer! Maybe videotape how they are doing it as well?
6. Read your owner's manual and see if you are missing something?
RE: Decent 12v coffee maker???
What we like to do is use the 120-Volt inverter and plug in a "Hot Pot" water boiling pot. It's designed for tea, but boils water in about 2 mintues, then we run it thru a French Press Coffee Maker. Makes the best coffee you can find! Well, second best, I still think the coffeee made in a glass pot on a campfire is the best, but I broke our old glass pot and can't seem to find another one.
Still searching...
RE: Camper directional help needed.
Camping World, AutoZone and other parts stores sell a trailer wiring diagnostic plug. Simply plug it into the tow vehicle harness and it has 7 different lights that indicate power and ground. This way you know for sure there is good power coming out. Or a cheaper version is a multimeter or light tester. If you have power at the plug, then check continuity from the harness to the light. Plug in at the pigtail for the turn signal terminal with a test wire long enough to get back to the light. If this is good, then it's a ground. A good "tool" to have around is a test wire. Make this out of the same gauge wire used for your lights and long enough to get back to the longest signal. To test positive, connect one end to the positive terminal at the plug and the other end to the light, basically bypassing the existing wire. If it works, then backtrack the wire to find the short. If it doesn't work, try bypassing the ground. This is a quick test for shorts. and you may want to just rewire rather than spending alot of time looking for the short...if it works.
RE: Smoke Detectors
Check with Home Depot or Lowes, they have smoke detectors with either a silence button, or a temporary disable which comes back on over a certain amount of time. Another option is to move the detector slightly away from the kitchen, not directly over the cooking area. Maybe on the other side of the vent? Then you could open the vent while cooking and not set it off.
RE: 98 3500 CTD Ram 4 wheel ABS - HELP
According to several Dodge forums (googled '98 CDT 3500 Ram No ABS) it seems the wheel sensors are a common problem with this vehicle. I would suggest taking it to a qualified service center that can read the "code" and find out what it is. I had a 2000 VW Passat (I think they missed a few letters in this name!) and had several check engine lights, or what I called the "$500" light come on as well as the ABS light twice! After replacing the first $500 module, the next time I took it to the VW dealer which was the only place that could read a VW code and paid them $90 to hook it up and give me the code. I then went on-line and found the second and third $500 module for $75 and $150 both with a 5 year warranty. The dealer wanted $500 and only a 90 day warranty. When the ABS light came on, once again, $90 indicated is was an ABS Vacuum module block and they wanted $1500! I found a remanufactured one for $150 guaranteed for 5 years and put it in myself. Get an estimate...search the Dodge forums.
RE: Front (not dash) AC not working in 1998 Bounder 32H
I am assuming you are running on 30 amp power? If so, your unit probably has an AC selector switch located in one of the cabinets, usually in the kitchen. This switch would allow you to run either the front or the back, but not both off AC power as the unit can draw up to 14 amps and both units would more than likely put it over the 30 amp load. The system is designed to allow you to run the genset which has a 30 amp run and a seperate 20 amp run to the back AC. This way, you put the selector switch on "front" and it runs from the power center while the back AC runs off the genset. Make sure both breakers on the genset are on! Not sure what the "test" is on the breaker box, however it could be the selector switch? If it is, then you need to pull out a multimeter and check for power at the circuit breaker and then at the AC unit itself. If there is power to the unit, then it's time for a qualified mechanic!
